Blog empresa Dynatech

The project known as DYNATECH Alpamayo Expedition” is an attempt made by a group of experienced Aragonese mountaineers to reach the Alpamayo summit, a 5,947-m mountain located in the Andes Cordillera Blanca in Peru.

Why the Alpamayo? When a mountaineer faces a challenge, more than one reason motivates him to do so. The “DYNATECH Alpamayo” project was born as a continuation of the attempt, and later successful achievement in 2009, to reach the mountain known as “the coldest in the world”,  a name given to the McKinley, in  Alaska, with a height of 6,194 m., which is also the highest mountain in North America.

In our search for new and demanding challenges, DYNATECH has set its eye on the Alpamayo, 5,947-m., which is known as “the most beautiful mountain in the world”.

In addition, the Alpamayo has a series of specific characteristics which makes undertaking its ascent a considerable challenge:


On one hand, this mountain attracts a massive number of mountaineers due to the beauty of its lines; on the other hand it only has very few routes open (all of them at the end of the last century), which, without a doubt, says a lot of the difficulties its ascent entails. There are only three routes (and one alternative route) open on the SE face (undoubtedly the most beautiful face) and the direct French route is the most difficult one, technically speaking.

This is the route chosen by the group, which implies, if possible, a bigger challenge than the ascent itself. This route, which was climbed by an American roped team in the 80s, owes its name to two French mountaineers who attempted its ascent but died in the process. It is a technically difficult route as it includes a 450-m climb on icy snow with an average slope of 65º and the last 3 climbing pitches may have an 85-90º slope, in other words, they are totally vertical.

Apart from the other difficulties this mountain entails, there are imminent risks of avalanche, temperatures reaching minus 20º and winds of up to 70-80 Km./h., as well as the proximity to the Pacific implying a very changeable weather, all of these factors make it a high risk ascent with a low percentage of success.

For these reasons, the challenge is exciting albeit serious and not risk-free. For this ascent, the group, which is highly experienced as its members have climbed summits of 6000, 7000 and 8000 m., is being cautious about this challenge, planning a progressive acclimatisation in order to avoid one of the main problems caused by such a challenge: height; and, trying to open a new route on this or another mountain in the Cordillera Blanca, if the circumstances are right or allow to do so.

Next Saturday 17th July, the expedition sets off to Lima (Peru) and will return on 13th August.

Our next reports will be sent directly from Peru.

We hope that, as a great mountaineer of the 20th C once said, they all return, return as friends and have a successful ascent, but always in this order.


Raúl MartínezFran Lorente and Adrián Uclés
Members of the 2010 Dynatech-Alpamayo Expedition

Comments are closed.