“Hello everybody. Last 18th June dawned in bad weather in Camp IV. We hesitated to descend, because it was snowing much and there was a poor visibility. There was not a forecast improvement and we did not want to spend more time on the glacier under these conditions. We talked to the Australian team and decide to form a strong rope of five people and began the descent. In this way, we increased the security. Without delay, we packed everything, we loaded it on the sleds and on the backpacks and we started to descend. The first stage until the Camp III was very hard. Practically, we went opening footprint, snow storm was very uncomfortable and the land with half and steep slopes made our walk with the sleds difficult. After more than two hours, we arrived at Camp III. There, a depot with more load, our skis, food and the third sled were waiting four us. Due to the heavy snowfalls, it took a long time to shovel for unearthing everything and we had to make a great effort. The Austrian climbers made the same, and then with five sleds we began the way. From here the land is less abrupt, but the load is heavier, and besides, as we went descending on the glacier, the risk of falling into a crack was bigger, so we had to act with more caution. The accident happened to the Malaga expedition the previous day reminded us that we could not relax.
After long hours of walking we arrived at camp I. Weather had improved, at this altitude the snow had stopped, but the sun hid behind the mountains, and although here in Alaska, in these months don´t disappear altogether, temperatures drop sharply when the “night” falls. It was 21 hours, we were very cold, and we coooked a little to get our strength back and we melted snow to drink. Here also we had food and rubbish depots which we had to unearth. When we left in the morning, we had not still decided exactly until where we could arrive. We had been walking for more than eight hours and we were tired. Eleven kilometers still left, seven of which were ligth descent and the last four of ascent until base camp. One option was sleep here and leave the next day, but then we chose to continue. The glacier since we entered the park had lost a lot of quality. The high temperatures on the first days, together the snowfalls on the last days had turned it into a maze of cracks to circumvent. Low temperatures in the night compact the snow, so the navigation at this time is more secure. So we set off again at 23 hours and gritting our teeth we started our last stage on this mountain. It was specially hard, the quality of the snow was really bad, it took a long time to advance with the sleds, and the load and the walking hours began to feel in our legs and backs. The noise of avalanches joined us during this last phase, bursting with violence into the silence of the glacier night. With a few frights that never exceeded of putting a foot into a crack, we arrived at the the basis of what they call “Heartbreak Hill”. Really, the name is deserved, because after all, when you see the height of the base camp (300 height meters difference) and how long are going to be those four kilometers, not only breaks your heart, but also your soul. But expeditions are like this, an endurance and strength test, in which we must give everything to the end. It is said that a summit is not consummated until arriving at base camp, in this case, the proper base camp, more than ever, is a summit itself.
Finally, after more than twelve hours of effort we set our tent and on friday, at 2 h. a.m., we prepared to rest a few hours in the hope of flying the next day. It wasn´t a nice night, because the sweat cooled in the sacks that ended flooded, but it did not matter, we were so near the desired hot shower and clean clothes.
A canvas chair and a jacket left out by the Rangers, made us trust that they could expect good weather and that definitely the light aircrafts could fly. it’s hardly surprising on this mountain have to wait for several days at the base camp because of the inclement climatic.
Almost when it seemed that we were to sleep, a female voice woke us up, Lisa, the Ranger in charge of the base camp, she asked us from out of the tent, if we wanted to fly, our company had a light aircraft which would land in half an hour. The happiness made that the soft bodies bring that reserve out and in a moment everything was into the backpacks again and over the sleds, everything on the back and on the sleds because on this endless mountain we still had to climb a slope. Due to the snow quality, it was getting worse, the light aircrafts need travel a longer distance to take off. So, again, more than half an hour pulling a load, heavier than ever, because we had unearthed the depot of food left in the base camp in case of staying here for several days more.
Finally, we loaded everything on board, at 10 h. a.m., and without any problem, Paúl, an expert and veteran pilot, took off and we delighted with the wonderful aerial view of this impressive glacier. While we were flying over Denali, the images of those snows and mountains, were mixed with our lived moments, days of effort and life together that will remain in our memory forever.
The McKinley mountain, Denali for the natives, has become a greater challenge than expected. The fact of carrying everything up by oneself, and the height difference of more than 4000 meters to overcome, gives you an extraordinary hardness. Climatology, one of the deciding factors on this mountain, has been favourable, but also, has led us to bet on a fast attack, because weather forecasts were few encouraging for the following days, as it was confirmed. It led us to carry out a fast attack to the summit, without much acclimation, a risky strategy that had repercussions on one of the members, but time leads all.
We landed in Talkeetna and when we arrived at the hotel, we lived some moments of happiness. The first was meet the Malaga expedition by chance and confirm that the accident in the crack was just a scare and it had only involved one member with broken ribs. The desired shower was the second moment of joy and happiness, after twelve days of sweats and a few changes of clothes, believe me it is needed.
But the greater happiness of all of them was the moment of watching the computer and reading all the chronicle of our adventure in Dynatech website. Reading the messages of everybody, family and friends, moved us to tears, the chronicles written by Fran and your support messages. Although technology hasn´t reach at that altitude, surely your help arrived there and gave us strengths in difficult moments.
From here we want to thank to all people who have made this adventure possible: Dynatech, as main sponsor, San Mateo driving school, Monzon Municipal Sport Board and Cinca Medio Area.
We also want to send an special gratitude to Francisco Lorente, “Fran”, who has related in a expeptional way our experience. When we read them, it seems to us as if he were here with us. Thanks Fran, and thanks to everybody for your support messages. As Frand told in one of his chronicles: a successful expedition: all are back, healthy, and more friends.
In this case, we add a fourth moment of success and celebration, the real happiness of the expedition has been read all of your messages and chronicles and feel you.
From Talkeetna, Alaska, a very strong hug for everybody of the Raules and Adrián”.
