Dynatech-elevation

Raúl Martínez, Adrián Uclés and Fran Lorente make it to the top of the Vallunaraju

The day before setting off to Peru, we said our goodbyes to Francisco Mateo (Dynatech-elevation General Manager); we were talking about the reason for his special interest in climbing and its consequent sponsorship. He told us that companies should always continue with their projects, even during difficult times, with enthusiasm and determination; and he perceived these values in mountaineering, values which are sometimes set aside in other fields. It is at that moment that Francisco convinced me; following today’s performance, I must admit that I understand his point of view to a greater extent.

Yesterday we set off to the Vallunaruju area to continue our acclimatisation process. We chose this area due to its accessibility and, above all, its noticeable difference in height. Our aim was no other than to gain height in order to be better prepared for future mountains.

We arrived at BC (4300 m) to sleep at this height and get used to it. In accordance with our adaptation plan, we got up early at 2 AM to walk at night. We left Base Camp at 3 AM and started climbing towards the IC, also known as Morrena Camp (4900 m); once we arrived, we felt strong enough to go a bit further and we reached the Vallunaraju summit at 5686 m.

RAUL MARTINEZ IN THE VALLUNARAJU SUMMIT (5686 m)

The three of us roped up, but 300 m from the top, my cold started to take its toll. Adrián and Raúl continued to the top. Once I had rested half an hour, I felt refreshed and decided to catch up with my partners. They were coming down while I was only thirty minutes away from the top. My mind was set to make it to the top. Raúl warned me of a risky pass and finally decided to come with me, reaching the top twice in the same day. He was very tired but our mutual affection was stronger than the tiredness in his legs and he decided to accompany me to share this moment; the summit moment will be ours forever. Adrián was waiting for us in the pass paying attention to our movements and keeping our backpacks.

We have been working high up for twelve long hours and we have given it everything we’ve got, getting up early and therefore resting little. We are now exhausted and we must recover quickly as this isn’t over yet.

This performance confirms Francisco Mateo’s approach: this would have been impossible without enthusiasm and determination.

Fran Lorente

Originally, today’s intention was to rest; however, we have the will and strength to continue with the acclimatisation and have therefore decided to set off to the Vallunaraju BC at 5686 m. We intend to climb up to the 4300 m BC today and tomorrow, at 3 AM, get up to go to the Vallunaraju and keep on climbing as much as we can; we do not have a particular height in mind, we just want to acclimatise.

Bad news arrives from the Alpamayo; it seems that a mountaineer, who was climbing on his own, fell down the corridor taking three Austrians with him. This is incomplete and inaccurate news, therefore, we are not aware of the seriousness of the accident.

We are focussed on our goal and no other external accident should influence our intentions.

All or nothing, we will not relent in the face of anything. The future will tell our tale and, in the end, it is the circumstances that will determine whether we succeed or fail.

Not everyone understands our way of proceeding and this is not our intention either; however, the people who love us deserve an explanation. We are very grateful that you are by our side and, knowing how satisfied this makes us, you tolerate all the difficult moments we make you go through.

We love you.

After being at 3800 m. yesterday, today, following the aclimatation process, we have been at 4500 m. in the Churup lake. It is a beautiful place. The Churup mountain, at an atitude of 5495 m., gives his image to the lake and that one looks like a decorative accesory as appropiate. Both of them are places of special beauty.

IMAGE: ADRIAN UCLES, RAUL MARTINEZ AND FRAN LORENTE IN THE CHURUP LAKE (4500 m)

During the climbing, the normal sensation has occurred. The body refuses the effort that the head is offering. The heart is accelerating and the lunges are seaching air where there is not.

However, we keep going, we know this is a process we need to get through in order to get our goal.

Adrian Ucles and Raul Martinez are doing well, they climbed a difference in height of 700 m. in just one hour and a half, for me it has been harder and it lasted 20 more minutes. I still have a cold and I suffering it at each step.

The suffering process of aclimatation will be gone and only good moments will stay. We are selective beings and we use to keep what we want and reject what we do not.

Fran Lorente

Today we have been buying all these kind of things that it is better for us to purchase here because of the volume-weight relationship. We have been visiting Huaraz from our guest house “la casa de zarela”, an enchanting place in the suburbs of the town.

IMAGE 1: FRAN LORENTE AND RAUL MARTINEZ ON SHOPPING IN HUARAZ

After buying we decided to acclimatize. We have gone to Wilcayancucho lake (3700 m.) This lake is located in the Cordillera Negra, that is just in front of the Cordillera Blanca, like if it was a mirror. The main difference is obvious, one is absolutely snowed and the other one not. However, the scenic view that offers the Cordillera Negra is more spectacular than the one from the Cordillera Blanca.

At the same time, the “steady-state” is that state in which you can live with all the oxygen you need and now we are looking for the acclimatization, the process in which we will live a period of time and moreover try to do an extra effort.

We, the mountaineers, are looking for everything, in return of anything. Or, and it is worse, we give everything for nothing. As Lionel Terray said, we are “conquerors of useless”.

IMAGE 2: ADRIAN UCLES, RAUL MARTINEZ AND FRAN LORENTE IN THE WILCAYANCUCHO LAKE (3700 m) LOCATED IN THE CORDILLERA NEGRA

We are conscious that grey nuances do exist and, occasionally, are the best options. But we are passionate people that live intensely each minute of our live and that is why we use to move between everything or nothing.

Sometimes, it does not depend of ourselves to take over what we feel or what we want, we are people that follow our heart and we want it all despite we get nothing.

After a long trip of 12 hours, we arrived yesterday at Lima airport around 7.30 (7 hours plus in Spain).

Today we have been walking around Lima downtown, we met a colorful parade by surprise. Each of the groups that were in this parade was representing different tribes that took part during the independence of Peru. July the 28^th is the National Party and these kind of eves are part of the previous days.

IMAGE: RAUL MARTINEZ, FRAN LORENTE AND ADRIAN UCLES IN HUARAZ

At 13 h. we have taken a bus from Lima to Huaraz, the town that is going to to be our particular Base Camp.

Tomorrow we will take information about the mountain, we will buy the late things and we will organize the cargo with the “arrieros” (owners of the mules that carry the backpacks to the Base Camp).

We feel very good and there is a great atmosphere among us, we make jokes and we are really happy.

Best wishes and we will keep in touch.

The project known as “DYNATECH Alpamayo Expedition” is an attempt made by a group of experienced Aragonese mountaineers to reach the Alpamayo summit, a 5,947-m mountain located in the Andes Cordillera Blanca in Peru.

Why the Alpamayo? When a mountaineer faces a challenge, more than one reason motivates him to do so. The “DYNATECH Alpamayo” project was born as a continuation of the attempt, and later successful achievement in 2009, to reach the mountain known as “the coldest in the world”,  a name given to the McKinley, in  Alaska, with a height of 6,194 m., which is also the highest mountain in North America.

In our search for new and demanding challenges, DYNATECH has set its eye on the Alpamayo, 5,947-m., which is known as “the most beautiful mountain in the world”.

In addition, the Alpamayo has a series of specific characteristics which makes undertaking its ascent a considerable challenge:

On one hand, this mountain attracts a massive number of mountaineers due to the beauty of its lines; on the other hand it only has very few routes open (all of them at the end of the last century), which, without a doubt, says a lot of the difficulties its ascent entails. There are only three routes (and one alternative route) open on the SE face (undoubtedly the most beautiful face) and the direct French route is the most difficult one, technically speaking.

This is the route chosen by the group, which implies, if possible, a bigger challenge than the ascent itself. This route, which was climbed by an American roped team in the 80s, owes its name to two French mountaineers who attempted its ascent but died in the process. It is a technically difficult route as it includes a 450-m climb on icy snow with an average slope of 65º and the last 3 climbing pitches may have an 85-90º slope, in other words, they are totally vertical.

Apart from the other difficulties this mountain entails, there are imminent risks of avalanche, temperatures reaching minus 20º and winds of up to 70-80 Km./h., as well as the proximity to the Pacific implying a very changeable weather, all of these factors make it a high risk ascent with a low percentage of success.

For these reasons, the challenge is exciting albeit serious and not risk-free. For this ascent, the group, which is highly experienced as its members have climbed summits of 6000, 7000 and 8000 m., is being cautious about this challenge, planning a progressive acclimatisation in order to avoid one of the main problems caused by such a challenge: height; and, trying to open a new route on this or another mountain in the Cordillera Blanca, if the circumstances are right or allow to do so.

Next Saturday 17^th July, the expedition sets off to Lima (Peru) and will return on 13^th August.

Our next reports will be sent directly from Peru.

We hope that, as a great mountaineer of the 20^th C once said, they all return, return as friends and have a successful ascent, but always in this order.

Thanks DYNATECH!

Raúl Martínez,  Fran Lorente and Adrián Uclés
Members of the 2010 Dynatech-Alpamayo Expedition

Dear customers,

These may not be the best times for certain expenses; we should rather try to save, work, make an effort and innovate at a maximum in order to successfully find the way out of the current economic situation.

Nevertheless, there are some people whose dynamism, spirit of self-improvement and confrontation to adversity, perfectly reflect Dynatech’s own character. Their goals, no matter how complicated, are reached thanks to their perseverance, tenacity, courage and bravery.

IMAGE: FRAN LORENTE, RAUL MARTINEZ, FRANCISCO MATEO AND ADRIAN UCLES.

Continue reading “LETTER FROM THE GENERAL MANAGER” »

Fran Lorente Pelegrín

Born in Zaragoza in 1966.

Of Cariñena origin.

• Technical Trainer in the Schindler Zaragoza Training Centre.
• Sports Technician. Degree in Mountaineering and Climbing
• Trekking instructor at the EEAM
• Head of the Mountaineering Committee of the Aragonese Mountaineering School.
• Head of Expeditions of the Aragonese Mountaineering Association.
• Climbing and Mountaineering Instructor of the Aragonese Mountaineering Association.
• Mountain rescue worker

He has worked intensely in the Pyrenees, practising all the different sports mountaineering has to offer.

-1993. Kilimanjaro (5995 m) following the Marangu/Umbuwe route.

-1995. Atlas, he reached the top of the Toubkal (4167 m) and the Ras Ouanoukrim (4083 m), the latter on his own,

-1998, led the Schindler Expedition to the Aconcagua which was both an unprecedented sports and commercial success.

-2002. Central Tien Shan, World First Ascent of Shipilov Peak (6201 m), a Virgin Mountain.

-2004. Grampians, Ben Nevis (1344 m), climbed following Comb Gully, North Face. A route of great difficulty and requiring commitment.

-2005. Aragonese Expedition to the Nanga Parbat 8125 m. Bronchitis prevented him from reaching the top.

-2006. Aragonese Expedition to the Broad Peak (8047 m) Height reached 7200 m.

Adrián Uclés Sena

Born in Monzón in 1980

• Fireman in the Cinca Medio Region.
• Sports Technician. Degree in Mountaineering and Climbing.
• High Mountain instructor
• Canyoning instructor

Life-guard and swimming instructor

He has worked intensely in the Pyrenees, practising all the different sports mountaineering has to offer: rock and ice climbing, mountaineering, canyoning, mountain biking and cross-country skiing.

-Alps, among others, he climbed Mont Blanc, Mont Blac du Tacul, Breithon, Dome de Neige and Ecrins.

-2004. Urriellu Peak (Naranjo de Bulnes)

-2005. Atlas, he reached the top of Toubkal (4167 m) and also completed various high difficulty climbing routes in the Todra Canyon.

-2008. Yosemite. Gran Capitan. Several difficult routes

-2009.  DYNATECH Expedition to the Mckinley (6194 m)

Ice climbing in the Pyrenees, among others, Gavarnie and La Grave in the Alps.

Taking part in Mountain biking competition and adventure raids.

Raúl Martínez Jiménez

Nacido en Zaragoza  en 1970.

Montisonense de adopción.

• Licenciado en Educación Física.
• Profesor de Educación Física en Salesianos en Monzón.

• Profesor de Educación Física de High School en California (EEUU)
• Director de la EAM
• Instructor de Alpinismo de la Escuela Aragonesa de Montañismo.
• Instructor de Alpinismo de la Escuela Catalana de Alta Montaña.
• Ha colaborado en la guardería del Refugio del Forcau.
• Autor de la publicación “Genero en Deportes de Aventura” y coautor en “1000 Ejercicios de preparación física” y “1000 Ejercicios de musculación”.
• Mejor Deportista Montisonense del Año 2005.

Domina diferentes facetas del Alpinismo: Alta Montaña, Escalada en Hielo y Roca, Esquí de Montaña, Barranquismo, BTT. . . .

-Alpes, ha escalado numerosas montañas entre las que destacan el Mont Blanc (4807m), Cervino (4477m), Mont Maudit (4465m), Dent du Gigant (4098 m). Escaladas en Hielo en La Grave, entre otras. Todas ascensiones realizadas por rutas de dificultad.

-2001. Gran Atlas, Jebel Toubkal (4167 m) por la Ruta Ikhibi Sud, combinando esta actividad con numerosas escaladas en la Garganta del Todra.

-2002. Tien Shan Central, Intento de la Primera Ascensión Mundial al  Shipilov Peak (6201 m) Montaña Virgen.

-2003. Andes. Urus Central (5515 m), Vallunarraju (5786 m) y Copa Norte (6177 m).

-2004. Grampianos, Ben Nevis (1344 m), escalado por el  Comb Gully.

-2004. Pamir, Korgzenveskaya (7015 m), primera ascensión aragonesa, completándola integralmente en solitario.

-2005. Expedición Aragonesa al Nanga Parbat (8125 m). Cumbre por el Diamir.

-2006. Expedición Aragonesa al Broad Peak (8047 m) Altura lograda 7200 m.

-2008. Yosemite. Gran Capitán. Vía Salathe. (1035 m). 5.9  A2

-2009. Expedición DYNATECH al Mckinley (6194 m)